A Few Of My Favorite Places

Being both a food professional and lover, I find myself eating at a lot of restaurants, always looking for something new and exciting. This is my pass time. My hobby. Perhaps I should include a treadmill in my hobby, but that is a matter for another discussion. You’ll find that most cooks or chefs have very clear ideas about what they consider good and what they stay away from. Now, it also has to be noted that I have never met a chef that wouldn’t put anything in his mouth at least once. This stems from our need to educate our palates every day. Even if something doesn’t look good or if we have heard that it isn’t good, we’ll still give it a try. Maybe, just maybe, there is a flavor or spice in there that we can use in our own recipes. Most times, this is a futile endeavor. It’s like searching for a lost treasure. You do a lot of digging around, but usually yield very little. But, there are those exceptional occasions where your senses are surprised and your taste buds electrified. These are the special moments. Interestingly enough, it doesn’t have to come from finding a new ingredient or experiencing an innovative flavor combination. Sometimes it comes from eating a perfect apple or a crusty piece of French bread. On occasion, it’s having a slice of pizza that has the prefect balance of crispy crust, tangy sauce and great cheese. That is the idea that none of us, professional or not, can forget- appreciate perfect food. While Café Annie or The Remington may be considered the best restaurants in town (and deservedly so), that does not mean that they have the best food. I personally don’t want to eat fancy food every day. I love truffles and foie gras more than anyone, but most days I’ll take a beef fajita burrito from Ruchi’s over anything at Brennan’s. My guess is that most of you would as well.
I remember teaching a class once and a student asked me what my favorite meal was. This is always a hard one for a chef to answer because we have eaten so much good food in so many great restaurants. I finally came up with the most honest answer: the best meals that I’ve had have been over trash cans. Now, don’t be shocked by this one. This is a little restaurant secret that most guests would find revolting. What happens in most professional kitchens, at least the ones that I have worked in, is constant eating. A chef is literally eating from the moment he walks into the kitchen to the minute he leaves. He’s tasting the stock, the soups of the day, the lunch and dinner specials, the sauces and so on and so on. Cooks bring you food throughout the day to sample and critique. At the end of service, there is invariable a piece of meat or two that was “fired” (cooked) by mistake or overcooked and not served. These are usually consumed by the guilty cook who tries to hide the evidence by eating it. Most of this consumption, however, is not done with the use of a plate or fork or spoon. Most of it is done right over a trash can next to a hand washing sink so that the paper towel it was served on can be quickly discarded and hands washed.
I can’t tell you how much fun it is to stand over a trash can and eat ribs or chicken or pieces of grilled meat with two or three other cooks at the end of service. It’s awesome. The hard work of service is finally behind you and the clean up of the kitchen is waiting. If you don’t smoke (and I don’t) this is the non-smokers smoke break. Those moments with colleagues enjoying, talking about and evaluating food are my favorite memories of my time spent in production kitchens.
Unfortunately, for most, those experiences aren’t readily available. So, I thought it would be interesting to give my thoughts on a few restaurants and menu items here in Houston. These are the places that I eat at and the menu items that I order. There are a few notable exceptions from the list (ultra-high end restaurants, large chain restaurants and all fast food joints), but I think that you’ll find that you are familiar with most places. If you’re not, please give them a try. Hopefully you enjoy them as much as I do.

Thelma's Bar-B-Que
1020 Live Oak St Houston, TX 77003-3614
(713) 228-2262
In my opinion, Thelma’s is the best BBQ that I’ve had in Houston. The meat is smoked perfectly and the sauce is sweet with just the right amount of heat. The secret to Thelma’s success? That sweet sauce. Whether coupled with the ribs, brisket or chicken, the sauce both accentuates and enhances the pure smoke flavor of the meat. Also, the side dishes are all awesome (my favorites being the potato salad and coleslaw- hey, I’m a traditionalist), and the selection of cake and pie slices is solid (go with the chocolate cake). Although the confines are tight (exacerbated by the fact that the place is crowded seemingly day and night), I prefer to dine in than take-out. So, if you take the Houston BBQ scene seriously, head down to the 3rd Ward and find out what the fuss is all about.

Pappas Bar-B-Q
1217 Pierce St Houston, TX 77002-8213
(713) 659-1245
OK, I realize that the Pappas empire rules the Houston restaurant scene. Sometimes I think that I see more of the Pappas brand around town than McDonalds. That being said, I think that their BBQ baked potatoes are the ultimate comfort food. On-line, they’re described as being the “size of a small electric toaster”. Well, I’m not sure that they’re that big, but I will admit that they are bigger than your average spud. I find it hard to finish one alone, and my appetite is not modest. I’ve been told that the chopped beef is the most popular choice, but I prefer mine to be stuffed with the sliced beef (it’s a little less greasy in my opinion). Any way you choose, I don’t think that you can go wrong.
Also, no mention of Pappas BBQ can be made without bringing up their beef ribs or dessert selection. The beef ribs are almost perfect. Nothing more really needs to be said about them. As far as the finishing act, I don’t think that there are better desserts offered in any restaurant in Houston. Just because they are served pre-sliced on a cafeteria-style line does not take away from their perfection. Any high-end restaurant in town would consider themselves lucky to have a chocolate cake or cheesecake remotely as good as Pappas’. The chocolate cake is perfect because it isn’t pure sugar. I’ve never had a slice that wasn’t moist (which is a miracle for chocolate cake) and the portion is almost more than one person can handle. Often times my wife and I share a piece at the restaurant and then take one home to share later. As for the cheesecake, The plain is great and the carrot cake cheesecake is even better. I think that both rival The Cheesecake Factory’s.

Goode Company Barbeque
5109 Kirby Dr Houston, TX 77098-5011
(713) 522-2530
When I first arrived in Houston, I was told that Goode Company was the best BBQ in town. Well, while I will never pass on an opportunity to eat there, I’m not prepared to lavish such praise on this city landmark. I will, however, sing the virtues of both the Austin Baked beans and the jalapeno-cheese bread. Being from the East Coast, I never had chunks of apples in my beans. Boy, was I missing out. As for the bread, I always ask for a couple extra slices when I’m in line- I can’t get enough of it. I would buy this stuff by the truck load if I could. Another reason I love this bread so much is because, when my mother-in-law was visiting last year, she really loved it as well. Anything that can make her happy, and put her in a good mood while in town, is a superstar in my book.

Houston's
4848 Kirby Dr Houston, TX 77098-5006
(713) 529-2385
Traditionally, I’m not into these nation-wide chain restaurants that tend to choke out the local guys (yeah, I may be a bit of a food snob when it comes to this one), but in this case I’ll make an exception. I have never been terribly impressed with anything that I have had in Houston’s, that was until I had the French Dip one afternoon. Now, you have to be prepared for this one. This is a $16.00 sandwich. No, it doesn’t come with shaved truffles or sliced Kobe beef. No, there isn’t foie gras or caviar anywhere near the plate. This is simply a toasted baguette, shaved prime rib and horseradish dip served au jus. And because of this simplicity, it is the best French dip that I’ve ever had.
Normally, in kitchens around the country, a French Dip is put on the lunch menu as a cross utilization for the whole prime ribs that are cooked for evening service. This is a great was for a chef to keep his food cost low (no wasted prime rib). Typically, a cook would take the left over rib ends, slice them thin and then reheat them as a sandwich order comes in. I have nothing against this method and have employed it myself when I was chef of a country club in Florida. I can’t tell you how many times a member would come in Friday night for the Prime Rib Buffet, then order a French Dip in the 19th Hole after his round of golf on Saturday. Little did he know that he was eating the same piece of meat. Really it didn’t matter because he was happy, I was happy, and most importantly, the Food & Beverage Director was happy with my numbers. This is what we call a “Winning Golden Triangle”. T chef of a private club usually keeps his job so long as this triangle is stable.
Another way that some kitchens do his sandwich is to take very thinly sliced raw ribeye and cook it to order. I’m not a fan of this method because it generally lacks the depth of flavor that the slow-roasted meat has. Basically, the cooked meat starts out more flavorful than raw meat (besides, I think of this as a way to make Philly Cheese steaks, not French Dips).
The technique that separates Houston’s from the pack is taking a freshly-cooked prime rib and slicing it paper thin. They aren’t using last night’s leftovers. They can get away with this because of the volume of business that they do (they are busy both day and night, selling a lot of prime rib and French Dips). Another reason that this sandwich is so good is because the kitchen doesn’t try to reinvent it. This is a traditional French Dip. There are no fried onions or salsas or exotic spreads. It’s refreshing to find an unadulterated classic. Maybe that is why I don’t mind shelling out $16 each time (just don’t tell my wife please).

Pappas Burger
5815 Westheimer Rd Houston, TX 77057-5616
(713) 975-6082
I am not on the Pappas’ payroll, I swear, but Pappas Burger has the best burgers in town, hands down. The meat is fresh (and cooked to your desired doneness which is a plus) and served on toasted buns. These are not five-day-old rolls pulled out of a bag. No these are quality rolls that really enhance the experience. For a treat, get one of the shakes. Made from real soft-serve ice cream and milk (you’d be surprised how many places add ice), they are superior to any of the platted desserts offered.

Goode Company Hamburgers & Taqueria
4902 Kirby Dr Houston, TX 77098-5008
(713) 520-9153
If I’m looking for the best ribeye in Houston, I don’t head for Ruth Chris or Outback. I head for Good Company Taqueria on Kirby. The flame grilled ribeye is cooked to order over such an intense heat that really imparts that awesome sear that all steak-lovers crave. Served with tortillas, salsa and ranchero beans, it’s different than your average steakhouse fare. I can’t get over the sear on this bad boy. The price isn’t modest ($18.00 the last time I checked), but I consider it a guilty pleasure for lunch every so often.

D J's Old Timey Hamburgers
7918 Kirby Dr Houston, TX 77054-1702
(713) 667-8855
To put it simply, D J’s is a great little family-owned burger shop. I love these places because it let’s me hold out hope that McDonalds and Wendy’s haven’t yet taken over the world (that’s not to say that I don’t enjoy a Big Mac or Spicy Chicken Sandwich on occasion). The burgers are good, and the service is fast (located near the Med Center, lunchtime crowds can get up to four or five deep at the counter). I like their seasoned fries, but always get the tater tots so that I can be reminded of elementary school lunches. Also, their onion rings are the batter-dipped variety, not the bread crumb nightmares of other establishments. All in all, a solid burger joint.

This Is It
207 W Gray St Houston, TX 77002-8523
(713) 659-1608
I could eat at This Is It every day of the week. I’d gain 100 pounds a year, but they would be happy pounds, and isn’t that what really matters? Cafeteria-style comfort food that is just a level or two above Luby’s, This Is It offers generous portions (3 sides, 1 meat and corn bread muffins) that are perfect reminders of Sunday dinners at Grand Ma’s house. I can’t get enough of the glazed sweet potatoes (heavily spiced with cinnamon, nutmeg, etc), home-made mashed potatoes or braised greens. The meat loaf is perfect and my wife and I usually fight over the chicken and dumplings. To top it all off, this is one of the few places west of the Mississippi that offers real sweet tea! For a man from the Southern East Coast, this is a real treat.

Frenchy's Chicken
3919 Scott St Houston, TX 77004-5522
(713) 748-2233
I have to admit that I am a big fan of Popeye’s Chicken. When done right, I really don’t think that anyone can touch it. But, if I’m looking for really greasy, really flavorful, really good fried chicken that isn’t Popeye’s, I head down to Scott Street and get some Frenchy’s. Anyone in Houston knows that this landmark establishment can’t be ignored on the local restaurant scene. There is a reason that the drive-thru line wraps around the place and spills out onto Scott. The chicken is all fresh and the sides are really good. While the desserts aren’t up to the level of the chicken, I can forgive this one (besides, not having dessert means that I can have another wing or two. . . or three). So, if you haven’t been there in a while, head down to UH and support this local legend.

Cafe Rabelais
2462 Bolsover St Houston, TX 77005-2518
(713) 526-6841
At Café Rabelais I had the best meal that I have experienced here in Houston. The country-side French cuisine is simple and perfect. From the chalk board menu to the cramped seating, everything about this place screams neighborhood bistro. Personally, I like the close confines, it reminds me of restaurants in New York or San Francisco. The food is sublime ( I had the grilled ribeye with shaved shallots on one visit- one of the 5 best dishes that I’ve ever had the pleasure of consuming), and the service is friendly. Get there early (no reservations and limited seating) and sample the nice wine selections. I promise that you won’t be disappointed.

Fadi's Mediterranean Grill
4738 Beechnut St Houston, TX 77096
(713) 666-4644
I recently found this place and can’t get enough of it. From the awesome pasta salad and hummus to the perfectly braised lamb shanks or seasoned potatoes, Fadi’s delivers the goods every time. My wife always orders the beef kabobs, so it’s usually up to me to venture out and try other options. I also enjoy the kabobs as well as the gyros. The baked chicken is consistently good and the mashed potato croquettes are one of the true hidden treasures in Houston. We both love the fresh-bake pitas. Try the fresh juices that are offered near the register. My wife gets the mango topped off with a little of the strawberry. I don’t get one, I just steal sips of hers as she eats off of my plate, not sharing any of her kabob.

Pappasito's Cantina Restaurant
2515 South Loop W Houston, TX 77054-2633
(713) 668-5756
I know that everyone knows about this place (the packed house every night is a good indicator), but I can’t talk about my favorite foods in Houston without mentioning the Tres Leches dessert. For me, this is right up there with the chocolate cake at Pappas BBQ. Perfect, perfect, perfect. Also, the warm chocolate bread pudding with caramel ice cream isn’t one to turn down either.

Taste of Texas Restaurant
10505 Katy Fwy Houston, TX 77024
(713) 932-6901
Finally, my favorite. While it might not be as fancy as Pappas Brothers Steak House or as famous as Ruth Chris, for my money The Taste of Texas is my favorite steakhouse anywhere. This is, in my mind’s eye, what I envision when I think of a Texas steakhouse- a lot of wood, trophy mounts on the walls and Muhammad Ali‘s gloves over the urinals in the men‘s room. I love that it isn’t stuffy or pretentious. I love the salad bar. I love the waiting area (no reservations are accepted once again) with its popcorn and soda machines. But most importantly, I love the steaks. From the Cowboy Steak (bone-in ribeye), to the filet to the prime rib, everything that I have ever eaten there has been nothing short of perfect. I need another five pages to give you all of my thoughts on the quail bites, the desserts are as good as any in town, and the service is second to none. Here’s my dream scenario for my final meal: I start out with a Johnnie Walker Black on the rocks. Then another. After that, an order of quail bites. Another Johnnie Walker, please. And this time fill it up. OK, now it’s time for the salad bar. Sure, one more. Next, prime rib, biggest on the menu, mid-rare with a loaded potato. OK, but this is my last one (with the meal please). Dessert, I‘ll take a chocolate cake to go and one more Johnnie (by this time we‘re on a first-name basis). Yeah, we’re done. All I need now is a wheel chair. . . and maybe one more for the road.