Braised Lamb Shanks with Mint Syrup

As Spring approaches, we all need to make it a priority to do as much cold-weather cooking as possible. That means soups, stews, chili and braised meat. Of course you can stew or braise year round, but the process screams Winter. During the Summer I want to grill and roast, but December through February are perfect for taking a few hours and revisiting the classics that came from your grandmother’s kitchen. Here, in braised lamb shanks, you have a relatively inexpensive piece of meat that, if cooked properly, can hang with its “top shelf” cousin—rack of lamb.

I think that most chefs will agree that it’s the less popular cuts of meat that tend to be the most rewarding to cook. In most cases, however, our patrons request loins, tenderloins and chops as opposed to the shanks and briskets of the world. A loin chop or filet takes absolutely no time to cook, just sear it and in most cases roast it to desired doneness. In the case of a shank however, time and attention couple to produce strong, full flavors that can never be accomplished with a simple steak. It just takes time and patience to unlock the flavor and tenderness from these beauties. Now, I don’t want to come off as someone who doesn’t appreciate a good steak. On the contrary, there is no better meal on a Summer night than grilled steaks with a garden salad and ranch dressing. That’s almost as American as apple pie as far as I’m concerned. It’s more that I respect anyone who can serve up a fork-tender shank. Grilled, roasted or pan-seared meats are on almost every menu, but how many contain lamb shanks, osso bucco or beef short ribs? That should tell you something.

What you need to get together:

For the shanks
Lamb Shanks 4 each
Onion ½, chopped
Carrot 1, chopped
Celery 1 rib, chopped
Garlic 3 cloves, crushed
Bay Leaf 1 each
Fresh Thyme 2 sprigs
Rosemary 2 stems
Beef Stock 2 quarts

For the mint syrup
Sugar 2 cups
Cider Vinegar 2 cups
Fresh Mint ½ cup of leaves

How to put it all together:

The shanks
1. Season shanks with kosher salt and black pepper. Preheat the oven to 375.
2 In a large braising pan (or you can use a sauté pan at this point), heat vegetable oil over medium-high heat until it begins to smoke.
3. Sear the shanks on all sides until there is an almost-uniform crust around each shank. Remove the shanks from the pan.
4. Add the onions, carrots, celery and garlic and sauté until there is some color on the onions. Be sure not to burn the garlic at this point.
5. If you used a sauté pan, transfer the shanks to a deep baking dish (at least 4 inches deep). If you used a braising pan, add the shanks back to the pan (laying them on their side, not standing up) and then add the beef stock (you can use water if you do not have beef stock). Do not completely cover the shanks. You only want to cover them 2/3 of the way. At this point, you could add a cup or so of red wine, but it is not necessary.
6. Add the fresh herbs and bay leaf and transfer the braising pan/baking dish to the oven.
7. Braise the shanks for 45 minutes.
8. After 45 minutes, turn the shanks over and continue to braise for an additional 45 minutes. Check the amount of liquid in the pan, being sure to maintain the 2/3 coverage of the shanks.
9. After a total cooking time of 1 ½ hours, the meat should be pulling off of the bone. Check the tenderness with a fork. If the meat is not easily pulled off of the bone, let the shanks cook for and additional 20 minutes. If the meat is falling off of the bone, then you’re done.
10. Let the shanks rest for 10 minutes and serve. In the photo the shank is served with mashed sweet potatoes, roasted beets and sautéed beet greens.

The syrup
1. Add the sugar to a small sauce pan with ¼ cup cold water and 1 teaspoon of cider vinegar.
2. Heat the sugar mixture over high heat until the liquid has evaporated and the sugar begins to turn amber in color.
3. Once all of the sugar has caramelized, remove the pan from the heat and add the remaining vinegar.
4. Return the pan to medium heat and simmer until all of the sugar has dissolved into the syrup. Remove from heat and add mint leaves.
5. Brew the mint in the hot syrup for 10 minutes and strain.

A few final thoughts on this recipe:
OK, I have caught a lot of flack from purists who are upset over the fact that I have not reduced the cooking liquid and used it as a sauce for the shank. I think this is a valid criticism, but contend that sometimes lamb can be a bit strong and has a tendency to overpower the palate. Now, how do you know if you are going to catch an extra-gamey piece of lamb? You don’t. So I take the safe route and simply remove the variable from my equation. I have no problem if you would like to reduce the liquid and coat this beautiful shank with it—just be sure to taste the reduction and judge if your family or dinner guests will appreciate its perfume.

This syrup works beautifully with lamb chops as well as being a nice finishing touch to a whole-roasted leg of lamb. I also have used it with pan-seared duck breast (sometimes you use whatever sauce is handy at the time and it just works.) I have found that those who are diametrically opposed to mint jelly find this to be a nice alternative. I still keep a jar of the neon green stuff in the fridge just in case—and may sneak some onto my plate if no one is looking. I’m not that snobby when it comes to mint jelly.